Rise and shine! I have a ferry to catch at 11am, that will take me to Cape Wrath. Around 10:40am I found myself huddling with a small crowd of traveling enthusiasts, inside a plastic bus-stop-like shelter waiting for the ferryman’s veridic on the crossing. At around 11, having consulted with his colleagues, the ferryman climbed out of his rusty old-school Volvo estate, and kindly informed us that due to the high winds and a fast moving tide he is not willing to risk taking anyone across.


Well that’s that then. I’ve given Durness as much time as I can spare. I do have miles of the coastal route ahead of me and if I was to make it to Skye and Mull also I better get a move on!

Day 3: Durness - Ardmair Bay

Distance 64 miles / Elevation 1430 meters

Kyle of Durness. Cape Wrath Ferry jetty - I have a feeling I will see it again someday.

Srath Dionard valley

Entering the Ceathramh Garbh (no idea how to pronounce). At the time this seemed to be a very intimidating stretch of road, in a good way. Me, the road and nothing but scary looking hills ahead.

Obsessive detail showing “highland tarmac” and a strange 1 mile stretch of super-smooth modern stuff. 2nd type is a cyclist’s bum heaven! I should probably rephrase that, but I’ll leave it.

Coming into Scourie Bay - 1st serious test of the brakes was conducted down that hill.

Death Star Corridor anyone??

Yes please.

Mighty Quinag hiding in the clouds.

Ahhhh. Two priceless moments at the end of the day.

Kylesku Bridge

I distinctly remember thinking at this point: “Yeah, - I’m becoming a master of reading the cloud movement by now: - that wall of rain is going to be here in 3.5 minutes.. so why am I fannying around with a camera when I should be pedalling the hell out of here?!” (Looking back onto Loch na Gainmhich)

5 minutes of sun that day. But what a glorious 5 minutes! (Ardvreck Castle, Loch Assynt).

Erm.. Ross & Cromarty.

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A great camping spot a few miles north of Ullapool at Ardmair Bay.